Let me preface this entry with this: I wrote this little blurb as an op/ed piece for the Peace Corps Botswana newsletter. To better contextualize this piece, it's good to know that there is a bit of versatility in the living conditions for PCVs in Botswana. I cannot speak for the rest of the PC countries or even for those in Africa, but rumor has it that Botswana lends to a kind of "Posh Corps" experience. Earlier in my service, I remember the nervousness in finding out whether or not I would have electricity or a pit latrine and discussing the implications of those varying conditions with other Volunteers...little did I know that those were the least of my worries.
Before joining Peace Corps
many of us believed the brochures, expecting mud huts and dinner by moonlight. Those
of us invited to Botswana were told we were lucky to be in the ‘posh corps.’ Even
from my homestay experience I recognized that many families opt for a satellite
dish for their TV before they install running water in the home. I remember
thinking why deny yourself when your
neighbor enjoys the modern conveniences of running water and electricity,
watching soap operas every single night and blasting the radio on Saturday
mornings? The question is: does the availability of these amenities make
the experience any less challenging or any less of a “Peace Corps experience?”
Some Volunteers live with
the beloved “air-con” in a relatively modern apartment or house, but what about
those living the ‘old’ Peace Corps experience in a traditional round house and
making the trek to the pit latrine at all hours. There are even some Volunteers
living without electricity entirely, often in the context of a village with
only a few compounds connected to power. Some opted for these living situations
and others simply acquiesced. Are they any more of a Volunteer because of their
deviation from modern conveniences and willingness to adapt? Even if they live
without them day-to-day, they may occasionally enjoy an episode of 30 Rock on their Mac, powered by the
juice borrowed from the local clinic earlier that day, all the while eating
their rice and tomato sauce dinner by candlelight. Or they may travel to
another Volunteer’s site for the weekend to take a nice bath and charge up all
electronic devices. I have both electricity and running water with a flush
toilet in my house. I have often wished I had neither simply because the wiring
is so terrible and the water supply so unreliable that I’d rather learn to live
without than have to live with unannounced outages. When water was out for
seven days, believe me, the flush toilet was a curse!
Whether you have these
amenities or not, you may have the friend who has the latrine and have spent the
holiday in a teeny village bordering the bush without electricity, inevitably
learning what it is like to live in these varying conditions, adapting to the circumstances
or learning to live without. One Volunteer put it to me like this: “When you go
visit your Volunteer friends you immediately learn three things about their
place: how to flush the toilet, how to get water, and how to bath yourself.”
These few words could not be more true. Who knew that there could be so much
versatility to your lifestyle within the course of a month? The key to this
revelation is the ability to adapt. There is so much variation in the
conveniences and difficulties in each village and at each person’s site so
whether first-hand, vicariously or temporarily we all experience these
conditions.
The reality is that we adapt
whether we have these conveniences or not and that has been the common Peace
Corps experience through 50 years of service. While the accessibility to things
like running water define our daily life in terms of stocking water and washing
dishes, it is surprising how quickly those behaviors become mindlessly routine,
even normal. One thing that I’ve learned in my service is that your Peace Corps
experience becomes less defined by how well you fulfill some 50-year-old
stereotype and more about how you find a contentment both in your home and in your community, with the people you work
with and the people you socialize with. When you do, all of those seeming
amenities fade into the periphery. The truth it may be easier to live without
water than it is to find a capable and willing counterpart for a project. It’s may
be easier to live without electricity than to get accustomed to the stares on
combi rides and the incessant “lekgoa!” resounding from some indiscriminate
location.
While Botswana is an anomaly
in its relative wealth to other Peace Corps countries, the notion of being
flexible remains, applicable around the globe and across the board. It is this
flexibility and learning to make a home in the unfamiliar territory and a
friend in the sea of strangers that brings together a common experience for all
Volunteers at all levels of development.
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